The Chinese Restaurant That Doesn't Want to Be a Conventional Chinese Restaurant

Opulent Art Deco design, circa 1930s + authentic Chinese cuisine = Madame Fan’s old-world intimate dining.

Unless you book one of its private rooms, you are not likely to get a table for more than four at Madame Fan at the refurbished NCO Club. That’s because Alan Yau – the Hong Kong-born restaurateur, and founder of Asian food chain Wagamama in Britain – has prioritised intimacy and interaction in his first South-east Asian establishment.

“At big Chinese restaurants, the huge tables mean there is no dialogue among the guests, except those next to you,” Yau says. “That’s not the point of a dining experience.”