Evolutionary Theory

As the co-founder and CEO of New York-based contemporary fashion label Theory, Andrew Rosen is a serious force in retail and manufacturing. He also consults with numerous labels, including Proenza Schouler, Rag & Bone, and Helmut Lang. He talks to Justine Lee about the changing landscape of American fashion

- Justine Lee

When you co-founded Theory in 1997, what was its mission and how has it changed?

It was a different time back then. It was the beginning of cellular phones and the wide use of the internet. And the office was no longer a destination; it was going to be wherever you were, and I wanted to make clothes that had the versatility and the flexibility for people who led these on-the-go type of lives. It’s still very relevant today. I started the company based on the philosophy that all our fabrics would be combined with Lycra. It’s important for a new company to really take a stand for something, and you have to have something that’s a little different that sets you apart from the rest, and that was mine.

How has the market evolved in the two decades since Theory’s genesis?

The speed and complexity of the industry has changed dramatically, and it’s no different from other industries. It was complicated to begin with but there’s a lot more to it now. The world is a single marketplace and there are no longer local markets. You have to see the market as a whole and communicate with customers directly. Understanding the digital landscape is crucial and it’s a new way of doing business as a whole. I have to work a lot harder today to keep up with what’s happening, and the focus is now entirely on the consumer. We have to change our focus and realise that the consumer is the most important part.