Last Of The Naga Headhunters

In the remote village of Longwa, in northeastern Nagaland, the last of the men that collected human heads more than half a century ago have gruesome stories to tell.

- Kunj Shah

In the dense darkness of a typical Naga home, made of woven bamboo and dried leaves, devoid of windows and electricity, it is hard to see 82-year old Chopa. His face tattoo blends him into the surroundings, but his eyes light up when I inquire about how he felt the first time he sliced offa human head. I can see the flames from the fireplace dancing in his eyes.

Chopa is a headhunter from the fierce Konyak tribe of Nagaland. Though I don’t understand the language he is speaking, I can see the pride on his face, his small chest puffed up, his fists clenched, the timbre of his voice rising. “My knees are a bit weak, but even today, I’m not scared of anyone. Let’s see who dares!” he says, waving his fists animatedly, ready to leap from his low chair.

He disappears into a shadowy corner of the room and emerges in warrior garb, a primitive rifle in one hand, a machete they call A tao in another. He begins a low, stealthy walk in the vast living room, as if he is trudging in the forest on his way to a battle. He moves carefully, using the tao to chop through the imaginary foliage and make his way towards his target. He loads the rifle and takes aim. Bam! And then, he raises the tao to perform the finale. One clean swish and the enemy’s detached head is in his hand. It is a vivid demonstration of his hunting conquest.