Redux Deluxe

Thomas Keller’s TAK Room at Hudson Yards provides plenty of retro pleasure at a not insignificant price.

- Adam Platt

FEW OF THE highly touted culinary ventures to open at Hudson Yards over the past few months fit as seamlessly into the dull, frictionless mall-dining terroir as Thomas Keller’s outlandishly pricey, curiously satisfying new restaurant, TAK Room. Unlike the local David Chang outlet, which is stuck in a windowless space in the back of the fifth floor, Keller’s sprawling operation occupies a two-story “anchor” spot, with its entrance on the same fifth floor, hard by the mostly deserted entrance to Neiman Marcus. The prime tables in the various bustling, crowded rooms (I counted four dining rooms plus a bar) command prominent front-row Hudson River views, which means you can sip your carefully procured bottle of Champagne and pick at your oysters Rockefeller while looking out at those endlessly reviled (and endlessly Instagrammed) new local landmarks, the spiraling, shawarm alike Vessel and the Shed.