7 New Acids For Clear Skin

Glycolic and salicylic acids are common. But phytic acid? Tartaric acid? These lesser-known players can have a major impact on clarity and radiance. Meet the new standouts.

- Genevieve Monsma

When glycolic acid was introduced in the early 1990s, it was revolutionary for skincare. Known as an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), it was the first over-the-counter active ingredient you could use at home to accelerate cell turnover and reveal the fresher, smoother, plumper skin underneath. Later, we learned that the sugar cane derivative could also stimulate your skin’s collagen production. Then came salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that could dissolve sebum build-up deep inside pores and act like an anti-inflammatory, making it good for red, irritated, acned skin. As a result, glycolic acid became the gold standard for anti-aging and salicylic acid became an anti-acne darling. That remained largely unchanged until recently. Now, some skincare products have lesser-known acids such as mandelic, phytic, tartaric and lactic. Why the additions? “I think of glycolic and salicylic acids as the lead actors in a play and these other acids as the supporting cast. When they all work together, they can improve the production,” says Shape Brain Trust member Dr Neal Schultz, a New York City dermatologist.

These supporting players improve efficacy for two reasons. First, while most acids aid in exfoliation, “each does at least one additional beneficial thing for the skin,” says NYC dermatologist Dr Dennis Gross. These include boosting hydration, fighting free radicals and helping to stabilise a formula so it lasts longer.