Local custodians of Peranakan cuisine lament the uncertain future of some classic dishes. Don Mendoza discovers why
IF THERE IS ONE THING TODAY’s lauded best restaurants lists have affirmed, it is that innovation is key to ensuring that a cuisine makes its mark on an increasingly fickle market. The sad fact is that an influx of new things to eat is often indulged at the expense of once treasured classics.
Thankfully, there has been a renewed interest in both innovating and preserving Singapore heritage cuisines, notably Peranakan fare. This was marked by the first-ever inclusion in the Michelin Guide Singapore 2016 of a Peranakan restaurant, Candlenut by Malcolm Lee (now located at Como Dempsey). And there is no denying the cultural significance of housing the National Kitchen by Violet Oon in the historical City Hall building that is now home to the National Gallery Singapore.
But these events don’t guarantee that no dish will slip through the tight embrace of this nation of food lovers; something more chefs are fighting to prevent. “Preserving our cuisine is preserving our heritage,” says Philip Chia, a fourth-generation Chinese Peranakan and self-taught chef who recently returned as guest chef at The Clifford Pier in The Fullerton Bay Hotel Singapore, for a three-week special in March. The menu featured some of his signature dishes as well as a few “forgotten” ones. These include the sasagoon, a simple treat, he explains, that is the product of Portuguese and Indian-Eurasian influences, with roots stretching as far as the Indian Catholic community in Goa, where coconuts are abundant. “It was a snack I enjoyed as a kid in the early 1960s,” he shares.
A mixture of grated coconut and rice flour is first cooked in a copper wok, and then ground finely and mixed with sugar. “Young children would eat it in kachang putih paper cones with their tips snipped offso the mixture could be poured directly into their mouths.”
Esta historia es de la edición May 2018 de Singapore Tatler.
Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.
Ya eres suscriptor ? Conectar
Esta historia es de la edición May 2018 de Singapore Tatler.
Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.
Ya eres suscriptor? Conectar
Mathew Leong
As the Norway-based Singaporean chef celebrates a milestone year both personally and professionally, he opens up about the toughest moments of his career and why failing is not an option
Asian Inspirations
Chef Ace Tan on his second restaurant, Asu-his love letter to regional Asian cuisine
State of the Arts
Arts nominated member of parliament Usha Chandradas discusses growing the creative economy by focusing on both supply and demand
Through a Curator's Lens
Circe Henestrosa, a fashion curator and the head of the School of Fashion at Lasalle College of the Arts, University of the Arts Singapore, merges her personal connection with artist Frida Kahlo with her extensive curatorial experience to explore intersecting themes of identity, disability and cultural heritage
Second Nature
Poet and educator Yong Shu Hoong brings fresh perspectives to the helm of the Singapore Writers Festival, from interdisciplinary perspectives to multilingual programmes
Wine Down
Nothing wraps up the day like a nice glass of vino. From flashy hedonistic escapades to geeky watering holes, these new wine bars promise celebrated viniferous pours that will please even the most discerning of oenophiles
A Legacy in Silhouettes
Kristina Blahnik, CEO of the designer shoe brand Manolo Blahnik and the niece of its legendary founder, shares her insights on preserving the house's heritage and introduces the new Manolo's Silhouettes campaign
To Have and to Hold
With its sumptuous textures, Loro Piana's elegant autumn/winter 2024 collection is a chic celebration of craft, quality and the universal appeal of tactility
Scent of Strength
Hermès unveils its first chypre perfume, Barénia―a captivating fragrance crafted by renowned perfumer Christine Nagel that embodies bold femininity and celebrates the brand's rich heritage
Nocturnal Revival
Nighttime skincare rituals will get a boost of supercharged restoration with La Mer's new Rejuvenating Night Cream