The marrow of life

Few other crops can be cooked in so many different ways and at so many stages – from flower to finger-sized to monster-sized – as baby marrows.

- JOHAN VAN ZYL

Many carnivorous South Africans, who aren’t familiar with cooking them properly, regard baby marrows as the non-confrontational and somewhat bland Betties of the squash, pumpkin and cucumber family. Unlike the hard-skinned winter varieties, these mild-tasting green, canary-yellow or almost white summer squashes, which are technically fruit since they contain seeds, are eaten as a vegetable – skin, seeds and all.

Compared with the winter squashes that are rich in beta-carotene, the nutrient level of baby marrows is relatively low. They’re not particularly high on flavour either, generally getting by with a little help from their best friends: garlic, lemon, tomato, mint and dill.

One of the greatest rewards of growing your own is that you get, along with the baby marrows themselves, their magnificent flowers, which can be stuffed and deep-fried or baked. The flowers have a sweet pollen-like flavour and are the perfect receptacle to fill with seasoned meat or cheese, especially ricotta, and soft herbs.