TIRED LEGS, LOOMING DEADLINES AND A CHRISTMAS ADVENTURE ON THE WORLD'S FINEST TRAIL... THE MILFORD TRACK
Adventure Magazine|February - March 2021
Steph and I were 1500m from the Glade Wharf, the head of Lake Te Anau, and she was imploring me to leave her behind. We'd run some 60 km in the last nine hours, including 1800m of elevation, and we were late for the last boat leaving the wharf for civilisation.
Derek Cheng
TIRED LEGS, LOOMING DEADLINES AND A CHRISTMAS ADVENTURE ON THE WORLD'S FINEST TRAIL... THE MILFORD TRACK

“If you’ve got any sprint left in you, go for it.”

But it was Christmas Day. Would there be some Christmas magic in the air? Would the boat captain— knowing of two runners on their way—decide to wait for us?

I was utterly exhausted, but I sprinted across the pristine grounds of Glade House, a private lodge. A slight uphill as the trail reentered the forest triggered a flurry of heaving and guttural grunting. I cried out at the first glimpse of the lake, not in delight at the discovery of a waiting boat, but in case a captain who’s about to leave might hear it and wait a tad longer.

My legs were aflame. The lungs were screaming. The tank was empty. Hazy hope was the only thing driving me onwards.

The Milford Track is touted as the finest hike in the world. It spans 53.5 km from Sandfly Point, at the edge of Milford Sound, to Glade Wharf on Lake Te Anau. It’s a trophy for trail runners, not just for the distance and the scenery, but also the logistical challenges.

It entails two boat rides, the first being a 10-minute trip from Deep Water Basin in Milford Sound to Sandfly Point. Making the second ride—from Glade Wharf to Te Anau Downs, on the main road—is the crux. Missing it means hiking over Dore Pass, a 1200m climb up and over inhospitable terrain, followed by hitch-hiking from the roadside.

Then there are the fitness demands and the forecast, which wasn't ideal: steady rain, with snow at the highest point—Mackinnon Pass. We could have waited for more agreeable conditions, but why not celebrate Christmas Day, which also happened to be Steph’s birthday, with an adventure?

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