Summit Special

A hill or mountaintop camp should be on everyone’s bucket list, says Fiona Russell. If the stars collide, with weather, views and a sunset, you’ll create memories that last a lifetime

- Fiona Russell

Arriving on the summit of a remote mountain in the Scottish Highlands as the sun sets, I would normally be feeling anxious. After all, most walkers aim to be safely off the hills and home before dark.

But this time, I’m planning to camp overnight on the top of Suilven, an iconic mountain located in Sutherland. The peak is surprisingly calm, given its lofty top and the steep sides that plummet to the otherworldly rock-and-lochan landscape of Assynt far below.

My friend Rob and I can’t hide our delight at our good fortune. A trip that had been planned many months before is coming together in almost perfect midsummer conditions. All we need now is a flattish patch of grass to pitch our two tiny tents.

AN ENJOYABLY LATE START

Earlier that day, Rob and I had set off deliberately late from the tiny settlement of Elphin, near the northwest coastal town of Ullapool. We had many hours ahead, walking and paddling a loch, but there had been no rush to get going. We agreed that with so many hours of daylight in northern Scotland, a lazy brunch and extra coffees were easily justified.

It felt strange, disconcerting even, to be so relaxed about a departure time for a big mountain hike. But when you plan to be out all night, you can adjust your normal day’s hiking schedule.

THE ROUTE TO THE CAMP

Finally, around noon, we set off with the sun warming our faces and a gentle breeze. My eyes survey the horizon and easily pick out the distinct hump-backed shape of Suilven.

If you have seen the film Edie, starring Sheila Hancock, you’ll already know what the mountain looks like. For drivers of the famous North Coast 500 route, the dominating hulk of Torridonian sandstone is easily recognised on the western horizon of Sutherland.