Best of The World 2023 – Istanbul

For centuries, coffee has percolated through the veins of Turkey's cultural powerhouse. Times have changed, but even in the face of fast-evolving trends, locals are holding on to the traditions that surround this humble, ancient drink

- By Connor McGovern. Photographs by Richard James Taylor

There are worse places for a morning coffee than Kahveci Mustafa Amca Jean's. Sitting on one of the stools in the quiet courtyard off İstiklal Avenue, I realise I'm not the only one to think so: a street cat has found a seat of his own, too, curled up on a cushion beside me in the sun's gentle rays. A quiet clattering of cups comes from the tiny kitchen in the corner.

"We have a saying in Turkish," says Duygu Doğuç, "Eat sweet, talk sweet.' If you just want to chat, we drink sweet tea. If you want a serious talk, then we have coffee."

I'm expecting, then, an earnest conversation with my guide from Istanbul Tour Studio as we sip strong, bitter cups of Turkish coffee, but it never comes. In fact, as I reach the end of my drink, Duygu turns the cup upside down on the saucer with a wry smile. "Ok, let's have a look." She flips it back over and peers inside, trying to divine shapes from the formless brown sludge. No luck. "Ah, I don't know. Did you know there's an app for reading coffee grounds now, anyway?"