All of Vietnam seemed to travel on two-wheelers. Motorbikes and scooters whizzed past in a hurry, choking the narrow streets and sputtering occasionally. I, on the other hand, had managed to slump on the seat of a local cyclo. Once, this ubiquitous, three-wheeled bicycle had been the traditional mode of transport but now, it served more as a tourist offering and a photo-op. To experience Vietnam like a local would be to strap on a helmet and drive around on scooters.
In the Old Quarter of Hanoi, my cyclo manoeuvred through cafés and shops that lined the streets. On the wide footpaths, people sat on small, vibrant plastic stools that circled street vendors, who provided everything from a quick snack like rice paper rolls to a full-blown, nutritional meal. They slurped their meals and drank ice-cold drinks.
My destination was the humble, hole-in-the-wall Café Giang, the first place in Vietnam to ever serve the now-famous egg coffee. Inconspicuous in a crowded lane, it was filled with locals and tourists alike. Old sepia-toned photographs traced the café back to 1946. I hesitantly followed the strong smell of egg to the open kitchen at the end. Egg yolk was whisked with coffee and condensed milk to make this popular drink. The coffee was served both hot and cold, and took an odd, bright yellow colour. I was pleasantly surprised; even with the strong smell, the coffee did not taste like it had any signs of eggs in it. Instead, its sweetness and thick, creamy texture were similar to that of a crème brûlée.
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