The Philippines

Despite centuries of colonisation and conflict, the original inhabitants of this South East Asian archipelago have maintained their vibrant, varied cultures, says Sarah Riches

- Sarah Riches

Palm trees, Bombay Sapphire waters, coral gardens as vibrant as stands of tropical fruit... these are the things that tempt most visitors to the Philippines, the 'Pearl of the Orient. But beyond these paradisical images lie many indigenous cultures.

The Philippines is an archipelago of 7,641 islands scattered across the Philippine Sea, on Asia's eastern edge. Human remains have been found dating back at least 50,000 years, long before Austronesians began arriving, followed by Chinese traders. However, it was the Spanish who left an indelible mark. Arriving in 1521, they claimed the islands, named the colony for Prince Phillip, and introduced their language and Catholic religion. The British briefly occupied Manila in the 1760s but the archipelago remained Spanish until the US took over in 1899. During the Second World War, the Philippines was under Japanese occupation. It finally became independent in 1946.

However, despite centuries of conflict and colonialism, the original inhabitants' way of life is still palpable. There are around 110 ethnic groups, speaking 170 languages. Indigenous culture is particularly strong on Luzon island, which is home to groups such as the Ifugao, Kankanaey, and Kalinga. Even today, exploring Ifugao rice terraces involves perseverance and long bus rides across the Cordillera. These mountains - along with the Kalinga's reputation as headhunters - meant its people resisted Spanish invasion.

"My family are Kankanaey," says Elvira Masferré Sana, who runs Masferré Museum in Sagada; it's dedicated to her late father, photographer Eduardo Masferré, who documented the tribes in the 1950s. "Men wore loincloths and women wore woven tapis," explains Sana. These are still worn during began rituals.