The Queen of the Hebrides

Whisky, walking, wilderness and some more whisky thrown in for good measure. We visit the Inner Hebrides to enjoy the taste of Scotland

- ROBIN MCKELVIE

“This the head tour guide at Ardbeg. Despite the ravages of the pandemic I agreed with Ron; not just on the 45-year-old dram. This was, and is, a special time to be at my favourite Islay distillery, the whitewashed dame that has stood firm against the Atlantic since Queen Victoria was on the throne. It was and is a special time to be on Islay too, a life-affirming oasis; a safe port, even, in the COVID-19 storm.

I’ve long had a special place in my heart for the ‘Queen of the Hebrides’. It’s hard not to fall for an isle alive with sweeping beaches, epic seafood and no fewer than nine whisky distilleries; Islay is a real life treasure island. This time, though, it was not mere sightseeing I sought, but an escape from the maelstrom of the pandemic. I’d taken five days out of the confines of my home office, but could Islay work her magic so quickly in this most surreal of times?

Heavens, havens & Hebrides

I was in good company flying to Islay. There may have been only five passengers on our Loganair Saab 340, but over autumn and winter thousands of pairs of geese flock here to escape the worst ravages of winter. Indeed 60% of the world’s barnacle geese and a quarter of its endangered Greenland white-fronted geese seek sanctuary on Islay. This may be northern Europe, but the Gulf Stream ensures the mercury rarely dips too low and snow is rare. My traditional autumn Canary Isles escape had been quarantined off, but on this early morning flight, as Islay seared into view in the peach-tinged light, its sandy shores wrapped around low hills and gnarly bays, the island already felt much more than a substitute.