Home Is Where The Bushveld Is
go! - South Africa|December 2019
Most people stop in Zeerust to fill their tank and buy a coffee at the Wimpy before they continue along the N4 to Botswana. But what is life like for the people who live in this part of the Marico Bushveld?
Toast Coetzer
Home Is Where The Bushveld Is

You travel past farms with names like Valkevallei and Knoffelfontein; past slate quarries, game farms, cattle farms; all along the course of the Klein-Marico River. There’s a depression in the landscape and in it you find Zeerust. That’s if you approach from the south, as I did in May this year.

The name is a contraction of the original farm name Coetzee-Rust: first owned by a certain Casper Coetzee in 1858, and later by Diederik Coetzee, whose idea it was to establish a town. The farm was divided into erven in 1867 and by 1880 it was officially a town.

And now? Now I’m here.

A naartjie from Mangope’s orchard

I always promise Vermaak Senosi that if I ever pass through Zeerust and I have more than half an hour to spare, I will visit him. Vermaak works as a bush chef for our tour partner Bhejane 4x4 Adventures, and he’s more than a magician in the kitchen. He’s always full of stories and he always welcomes you to the campfire with a big smile.

I drive out of town in the direction of the Skilpadshek border post to Botswana. After a while, I turn right at Lehurutshe. During apartheid, this area was part of the Bophuthatswana homeland. You’ll see almost no settlements indicated on your map, but that’s far from the truth: I drive through sprawling village after sprawling village. The houses have spacious yards and bushveld trees provide shade at crossroads. Cattle roam freely as kids walk to school.

I meet Vermaak at the police station in the village of Motswedi and we drive to his house for tea and rusks. Later, he asks if I want to meet one of the daughters of Lucas Mangope, the controversial former leader of Bophuthatswana. Apparently the Mangopes are Vermaak’s neighbours and he was good friends with one of the Mangope sons as a young man.

Esta historia es de la edición December 2019 de go! - South Africa.

Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.

Esta historia es de la edición December 2019 de go! - South Africa.

Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.

MÁS HISTORIAS DE GO! - SOUTH AFRICAVer todo
Rolling out the big guns
go! - South Africa

Rolling out the big guns

If you're still scanning the horizon for a Chinese automotive invasion you're looking the wrong way. It's already happening, and the new GWM Tank is the off-road spearhead into the highly lucrative and hotly contested lifestyle market.

time-read
2 minutos  |
June/July 2024
TAKE A HIKE
go! - South Africa

TAKE A HIKE

The beautiful agony of Tienuurkop

time-read
3 minutos  |
June/July 2024
Time out in Dullies
go! - South Africa

Time out in Dullies

A long weekend in Dullstroom is just long enough to make you realise you need to spend several more weekends here! There's food, drink, art and action in abundance. Here's your guide.

time-read
4 minutos  |
June/July 2024
Gallivanting in the Galápagos!
go! - South Africa

Gallivanting in the Galápagos!

The Galápagos Islands are on many a traveller's wish list. They were on Hanlie and Vivian Gericke's too, even though the price of visiting made their eyes water. Was it worth it? Read on...

time-read
9 minutos  |
June/July 2024
BURCHELL AND THE COUNTRY OF THE BUSHMEN
go! - South Africa

BURCHELL AND THE COUNTRY OF THE BUSHMEN

How many times have you driven through a landscape and wished you could have seen it centuries ago? In 1811, the English artist and explorer, William John Burchell, travelled through South Africa. Join us as we follow in his footsteps.

time-read
10+ minutos  |
June/July 2024
Long live the Hibiscus Coast
go! - South Africa

Long live the Hibiscus Coast

The KZN South Coast is a national treasure. It's still the place to go if you want a classic seaside holiday complete with warm waves, cold beer, soft serve and good vibes. Here's your guide.

time-read
8 minutos  |
June/July 2024
The island at the end of the earth
go! - South Africa

The island at the end of the earth

Imagine adlace-with the cleanest air arid:the clearest seawater, where_no human.oranimabwants to:harm you: A placewhere the climates balmy. year-round:-with a sekrhistory ahd wwild scenery. A place like this:exist8” and it’s called St Helena.

time-read
10+ minutos  |
June/July 2024
A day on the road
go! - South Africa

A day on the road

You never know what the road will bring. Toast Coetzer heads south on the N1 and discovers South Africa.

time-read
5 minutos  |
June/July 2024
The wilder shore
go! - South Africa

The wilder shore

The final leg of a 30-day trek across East Africa sees lan Tyrer and the Africa - Wild & Untamed crew explore both shores of Lake Malawi. Get ready for an overloaded ferry, a croc attack and being surrounded by elephants...

time-read
10+ minutos  |
February/March 2024
A river runs through it
go! - South Africa

A river runs through it

Sabie is onthe Drakensberg escaromentialongMpumalanga’s famous Panorama Route. Want a weekend away surrounded by forests and waterfalls? Here's wnat you need to know.

time-read
10 minutos  |
February/March 2024