We Are People, Not Mountains

How do you make a living in the furthest, driest reaches of Bushmanland?

- Toast Coetzer

I pause in Steinkopf to refuel the Renault Duster, then I proceed north on the N7, passing Eenrietberg just outside town. Beyond that, I turn right onto a wide, sandy road to Henkries. Close to Henkries, water is pumped from the Orange River. From there, for nearly 250 km, a pipeline provides water to nearly all the towns in this part of the Northern Cape: Steinkopf, Springbok, even distant Kleinzee. I pass construction vehicles – the pipeline, originally built in record time back in 1973, is currently being replaced for most of its length.

After a while I stop and get out. A hot wind blows. I walk towards a rondavel-sized quiver tree, 50 m away. It’s the only thing taller than calf height. It’s late January and bone dry, even for Bushmanland.

The quiver tree says nothing, and it says everything. I cup an ear to its trunk; there’s a heartbeat deep down inside. I whisper something to it, and return to the car. I pass a place called Doornwater – a booster pump station on the pipeline. Not a soul.

Before I reach Henkries, I turn right towards Goodhouse, a small settlement next to the Orange River.

A few years ago I travelled through here with 4x4 guide Rey Janse van Rensburg. That day we stopped and ate lunch in the shade of a shepherd’s tree. Shepherds appeared with their flock of sheep and goats, watering them at a trough. I walked over and met Iky Engelbrecht, a Steinkopf-based farmer. I decided then I would return one day to see how on earth people like Iky manage to survive in this semi-desert.

And here I am.