LEADING WITH PASSION

Fashion loves recollections. There's something inarguably romantic about recalling details of past collections that were, at the time, unknown to anyone who worked outside the realms of creating them. For this portfolio, we asked Tarun Tahiliani, JJ Valaya, Namrata Joshipura and Varun Bahl - founder designers of eponymous labels, each with at least two decades of experience in the Indian fashion industry - to recall a collection that holds a special place in their life. Their answers reveal stories about works made with love.

-  Ashwini Arun Kumar

TARUN TAHILIANI on Kumbhack, 2013

"When I went to the Kumbh Mela in 2013, it was touted as the year humanity gathered in its largest proportion in one place. People from around the world came to observe the rigorous discipline, fantastic control and the incredible spectacle of faith.

But I was there to witness the unique fabric draping and clothing styles of the sadhus, rishis and devotees.

The simplest saffron hued cotton fabrics and silhouettes – lungis, dhotis, saris, bundi jackets, waistcoats – were used to express individual style along with occasional dreadlocks and rudraksha malas.

From this trip emerged our 2013 collection, Kumbhack. A sadhu’s orange dhoti and mango-kesar coloured shawl with fringes became our inspiration for a draped saffron skirt.

It featured a pleated hip-yoke and came with a crushed Chanderi shawl that was wrapped around the model on the ramp.

We accessorised with a necklace made from shells, beads and feathers – as glamorous as any bejewelled neckpiece. The ability to twist and turn simple fabrics into these wonderful interpretations was very exciting.”

JJ VALAYA on Tintin, 2005

"There is one collection that remains etched not only in my memory but in the memories of all those who witnessed that show. 

In a 2005 fashion week show, I brought my favourite comic character, Tintin, to the ramp.

When I sensed an opportunity to bring to life something that I had grown up with, I seized it. More than the collection, it was the show itself that was magical.