The Runway Rundown

How do you navigate a season that toys with the tension between comfort and audacity? Simple-you refuse to pick sides. The fall/winter 2024 collections dare to do just that. Some designers give us 'swaddle season' with oversized, cocoon-like coats that offer a warm embrace. Conversely, others serve up sharp cigarette pants and cinched blazers for those ready to power up. The/collections balance protection with individuality, with colours swinging from oxblood to rose pink. Why choose when you can have it all?

- Rohaizatul Azhar

chanel

Drawing inspiration from Deauville, the seaside town where Gabrielle Chanel first turned fashion on its head, Virginie Viard delivers a collection that feels like a breath of fresh, sea-salted air.

Viard, who left the French house in June, created a dreamy Vibe by channelling Deauville's serene, ever-changing skies into a colour palette of soft pastels and rich autumnal hues. Then she played with contrasts by pairing delicate negligees with boxy tweed jackets, and matching sailor sweaters with knee-high platform boots reminiscent of the glam rock era. It's a clever balancing act that makes Chanel's timeless codes feel newly minted.

Presented through 73 looks, this collection is a masterclass in blending the romanticism of the past with a touch of modern nonchalance. Among the standout pieces: An oversized cardigan paired with wide-legged boucle trousers nails effortless chic, while a triple denim ensemble adds a cheeky twist to Chanel's classic repertoire. A broad-shouldered longline coat, casually paired with cuffed jeans and suede platform boots, hits the sweet spot between style and practicality. Viard also injects a playful touch with a sailor-inspired white V-neck sweater adorned with pom-poms, adding a dash of whimsy to the lineup.

CELINE

In a departure from his usual rock-infused style, Hedi Slimane focuses exclusively on dresses and skirts for CELINE'S fall/winter 2024 collection. Eschewing the skinny jeans and grunge elements that have characterised his previous collections, the creative director presents a more refined and cohesive vision, where each piece exudes youthful sophistication.