Blurring BOUNDARIES

As Raw Mango turns 15, its founder, Sanjay Garg, talks to Praachi Raniwala about textile innovations, artistic collaborations, and why he'd choose Bihari pop over electronic music any day

When Sanjay Garg launched Raw Mango as a handloom sari brand in 2008, he wanted to initiate a dialogue on India's craft heritage and culture in its purity, devoid of contemporary fusions or twists. It was his presentation on the idea of India (and the many Indias within it) - one which kept expanding over the years, as did the brand's repertoire. It's almost as if Garg was saying, "Come for the fashion. But really, stay for the art, music, dance and culture."

And while the textile designer may find the mantle of 'a cultural revolution' heavy words to associate with, there is no denying that he revolutionised the discipline in his quiet, eloquent way. "Back when I started, a sari was just not considered cool. Women who wore saris were considered behenjis (unsophisticated). That really provoked me. Our perception of India, luxury, fashion, textile and art needed to be rewritten. And I wanted to be that changemaker," says Garg over a virtual call with ELLE India.

Raw Mango stores across the country today are akin to 'cultural centres', as Garg calls them, hosting events and talks with the likes of Geoffrey Bawa, Shashi Tharoor and Maa Anand Sheela. In 2020, Raw Mango released short films in collaboration with renowned Kathak dancer and choreographer Aditi Mangaldas (who had also previously performed live for an intimate audience at one of the brand's now famous baithak parties) to support the performing arts community. What Garg is really selling are collectibles rather than just clothing. All the while celebrating the country's versatile textile legacy through layered storytelling and visuals, through maximal colours but stripped of unnecessary frills, and through objets d'art that he has personally collected.