ALL SHOOK UP

FORGET BORROWING FROM THE BOYS. THE MOST EXCITING NEW VOICES IN MENSWEAR TODAY COME FROM THE WORLD OF WOMEN.

- JEFFREY YAN

This season, a handful of the industry's most exciting womenswear designers made their menswear debuts. Though the collections they showed were wildly different, what stood out as a unifying factor was how fully fleshed out their visions were, and the comprehensiveness of their narratives and world-building. These were bold, directional collections that added new dimensions to the discourse on men's fashion, gender and fluidity. In rounding out their brand offerings with the addition of menswear, they all borrowed from and expanded on their womenswear language-be it Peter Do's soulful minimalism, Simone Rocha's dreamlike softness, or Nicola Brognano's brand of brash-and-flash at Blumarine.

In the few short years since he launched his label in 2018, Peter Do has shot to fashion stardom, quickly becoming one of the major draws at New York Fashion Week. Of course, any acolyte of Phoebe Philo would have their post-Céline moves closely watched, but Do actually has the goods to warrant the attention. His clothes are defined by a sense of modularity and adaptability-pieces can be often worn or transformed in different ways thanks to clever, thoughtful construction. Classic men's tailoring is usually the starting point of Do's work, though in his hands, it has been reworked and rethought-his tailoring is sharp but not stiff, commanding but not overbearing. In the vein of Yohji Yamamoto, his work is poetic and powerful in equal measure.