IN FASHION
Wallpaper|September 2023
The A/W23 collections, distilled into 12 striking looks
Jack Moss
IN FASHION

WAVE LENGTH

Designed to evoke the blooming first stages of romance, eclectic fusions of colour and texture defined Missoni's womenswear collection, such as this wool overcoat, featuring waves of 3D knit.

ON POINT

Prada's co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons noted a desire to oppose simplicity with moments of 'comfort and exaggeration' as epitomised in a series of precisely tailored jackets for men, out of which fuzzy winged collars emerged.

RISING STAR

Maximilian Davis' second season as Ferragamo's creative director saw him continue to hone the Florentine house's shoe offering with this mock-croc riff on the Mary Jane, drawing inspiration from old Hollywood starlets but with a contemporary bent.

UNDER THE BELT

Max Mara's creative director Ian Griffiths looked to 18th-century philosopher Émilie du Châtelet, whose liberated take on the era's dress codes inspired cocooning opera coats and leather obi belts, cut with the modernity synonymous with the house.

HAIR LINE

Inspired by Jackie Onassis' reclusive cousin Little Edie, immortalised in the 1975 documentary Grey Gardens, Victoria Beckham's eccentric collection featured surreal necklaces recalling human hair, a nod to the work of Brazilian artist Solange Pessoa.

KNIGHT MODE

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Guiding Light - Designer Joe Armitage follows his grandfather's footsteps in India, reissuing his elegant midcentury lamp and creating a new chandelier for Nilufar Gallery
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Guiding Light - Designer Joe Armitage follows his grandfather's footsteps in India, reissuing his elegant midcentury lamp and creating a new chandelier for Nilufar Gallery

For some of us, family inheritances I tend to be burdensome, taking up space, emotionally and physically, in both our minds and attics. For the London-based designer and architect Joe Armitage, however, a family heirloom has taken him somewhere lighter and brighter, across generations and continents, and into the path of Le Corbusier. This is the story of a lamp designed by Edward Armitage in India 72 years ago, which has today been expanded into a collection of lights by his grandson Joe.

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