New blooms

Six budding menswear labels that are resowing the fashion landscape

- BEN SCHOFIELD

EDWARD CUMING

Madrid-based Australian designer Edward Cuming is intent on stripping away the formality of classic menswear to create something that feels softer, less industrial. His desire is to design wardrobe building blocks; 'clean, clear and edited'. A longline duster coat and sheer diaphanous vests and shorts that skim the body are not just emotive but useful, while traditional shirts and suits are rethought in deadstock viscose lining, washed so the colours bleed into each other. His ethos intuitively reflects a shift towards a freedom and fluidity that is flourishing not just in menswear but throughout global culture. edwardcuming.com

GEORGES WENDELL

At 23, Parisian designer Pierre Kaczmarek has already taken one self-started fashion label, Afterhomework, to global acclaim and closed it at its peak when it didn't suit his creative trajectory. He then chose to re-energise the relatively unknown Georges Wendell brand, which he bought for €1. Each season is based around a fictional character inspired by conversations with older friends, and his clothes are louche with after-hours sex appeal, composed for a cast of archetypal Parisian personalities. Conscious of waste, he makes small drops via the Georges Wendell website to satiate an appetite for newness. georgeswendell.com

MARIE LUEDER