JOSE GARZÓN'S SEAFOOD FIDEUÀ

The Valencia-born head chef of Porta in Chester talks about his passion for paella, and the pasta dish that brings people together

- TONY NAYLOR

When it comes to authentic Spanish tapas, Chester probably isn't the first place that springs to mind. But, at Porta, created by brothers Joe and Ben Wright, the city has a restaurant that-in plates of pan con tomate, presa Iberica pork with mojo verde, and Picos de Europa blue cheese served with caramelised walnuts, sultanas & honey - sets a notable bar for Spanish food.

In the Wright brothers, Valencia-born chef Jose Garzón recognised fellow believers in the power of exceptional ingredients. "There wasn't any fuss about trying to do anything fancy," says the 37-year-old, who has been head chef at Porta since 2017. "The idea, even before I arrived, was to do traditional tapas the same way you would in Spain. Joe and Ben love Spanish food, travel a lot and have a good knowledge of Spanish food. It was a good place to start."

As a Valencian, Jose brought his own experience to Porta's table. Paella Valenciana, for example, is now one of its iconic dishes. Paella is, like titaina or fideuà, one of many regional Valencian recipes that remain close to Jose's heart: "An only child, I was born and raised in Sant Isidre, close to Valencia's city centre. Valencia has many independent shops and markets, and one of Spain's best and biggest indoor markets, Mercato Central. I was lucky I grew up with access to fresh, local produce. For example, really good mussels or baby clams, known as tellinas.

"My parents ran a bakery, and because they worked long hours, I spent a lot of time with my grandparents on my mum's side. They had an apartment near the beach, just outside Valencia in El Perelló, and I'd go there every summer.