When it comes to Vitis vinifera genetic diversity, the New World could save the Old World.' This dramatic statement was made in 2023 by Dr Etienne Neethling, a South Africa-born viticulture researcher now working in France. This view may be surprising, considering the country that's home to the largest number of native vinifera grape varieties is Italy. But in general, there has been a dramatic reduction in genetic diversity within many of the 'noble' grape varieties over the last century. Today it's rare to find a commercial vineyard with more than three or four clones of a variety such as Cabernet Sauvignon.
The situation is different in the wine-growing nations generally still referred to as the New World. Argentina, in particular, has remained a sort of Galapagos Island for same-variety Vitis vinifera genetic diversity - for Malbec and a few other varieties. This is partly due to its economic and political isolation throughout the second half of the 20th century. But it is also because Argentina has continued to plant vines ungrafted, by massal selection - propagating new vines by taking cuttings from the best-quality vine stock (see box, opposite) - while most of the world moved to grafted clones.
According to Argentina's national institute for viticulture INV (Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura), about 89% of Argentina's vineyards are ungrafted and massal-selected; indeed there could be more than 150,000ha of ungrafted, massal plantings in Argentina, according to anecdotal evidence from researchers.If true, this would make Argentina the country with the largest area of ungrafted, massal vineyards in the world.
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Esta historia es de la edición September 2024 de Decanter.
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A Resource for the World? - Argentina is unique in the genetic diversity preserved in much of its vine material. With climate change and disease posing increasing threats worldwide, Catena Zapata winery is asking what lessons can be learned to protect vineyards within and beyond the nation's borders
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