GROWING UP IN SWEDEN, Emma Bengtsson was always a gingerbread man in the early-morning train of children walking house to house each December 13, never the candle-crowned St. Lucia selected to head the celebratory procession. "I wasn't trusted with open flame," the Aquavit chef remembers, but she still thrilled in the ritual of assembling at school very early on one of the darkest days of the year and bringing music, warmth, and light to neighbors in honor of the feast's namesake martyr. Unlike some, Bengtsson doesn't personally mind the minimal sunlight at this time of the year in her native country, explaining, "We get to light candles and cozy up on the couch, and you don't have to go out. For introverts, it's really nice."
For Bengtsson and her fellow Swedes—as well as Norwegians and Swedish-speaking Finns—there is also solace and celebration in enjoying lussekatter, also called lussebullar. That’s the feast day’s traditional wheat bun, made sunny with saffron and curled into a double cat tail–like shape with a raisin or currant pressed into the center of each coil. Like any holiday recipe, it’s often personalized to the tastes of the makers. Bengtsson’s family opted for cardamom and the minimal sugar of many Swedish baked goods. Nichole Accettola, chef-owner of Kantine in San Francisco, prefers brushing a sweet orange zest–infused glaze on the version she perfected for her book, Scandinavian from Scratch (recipe at right). Paired with a warm cup of mulled, spiced glögg—nonalcoholic for the young ones and fortified with wine for the elders—on a long, dark December night, no other holiday treat can hold a candle.
Lussekatter (St. Lucia’s Day Saffron Buns)
ACTIVE 1 HR; TOTAL 2 HR 45 MIN
MAKES 18
Esta historia es de la edición December 2024/January 2025 de Food & Wine.
Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.
Ya eres suscriptor ? Conectar
Esta historia es de la edición December 2024/January 2025 de Food & Wine.
Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.
Ya eres suscriptor? Conectar
Start Small, Think Bliss Partnering with the James Beard Foundation makes Windstar's cruises a delicious route into French Polynesia.
ASI SIPPED A ROBUST CUP of French roast while leaning against the bow railing of our yacht, we glided into the sapphire waters of Taiohae Bay, deep in the South Pacific.
HOME SWEET HOME
An all-butter gingerbread and a streamlined, stylish design are the secrets to these modern gingerbread houses. We've got the recipe and plans you need to get your (gingerbread) house in order.
SHÖGATSU
The Japanese New Year starts off with a simple bowl of soup.
KWANZAA
Seven days of celebration offer endless opportunities for connection and creativity.
ST. LUCIA'S DAY
Fragrant, pillowy saffron buns add sweetness and warmth to the Scandinavian holiday.
HANUKKAH
For Italy's Jewish communities, the festival of lights means one thing: lemony fried chicken.
CHRISTMAS
South India is home to one of the world's oldest Christian communitiesand distinct, delicious traditions.
NOCHEBUENA
Christmas Eve means big gatherings, big meals, and beloved traditions for Latino families around the world.
YALDA NIGHT
For this Persian celebration of the winter solstice, late-night snacks are in order.
A FAT AFFAIR
Life lessons from the richest—and Frenchest—holiday tradition on earth