BEGINNING HIS CAREER as a restaurateur in Peru, Nobu Matsuhisa established the Japanese-Peruvian fusion cuisine that garnered him acclaim so broad that he became a chef known only by his first name. Today he's also a hotelier whose first name is everyone's last name when it comes to impeccable cuisine and unimpeachable service.
Chef Nobu, over 35 years in your culinary career, has there been an evolution in your working style?
I never thought that I would have restaurants all over the world. My first restaurant had only 38 seats; it was always full and difficult to get seats which led to a lot of complaints, so my landlord said, "Please take over the neighbouring unit." Eventually, Robert De Niro took notice of my restaurant in 1988 and offered to invest so I could open another in Manhattan. I rejected him the first time because I was not ready, but he kept reaching out over the years. The next time I went to New York, I realised he was studying everything I did despite his busy schedule as a movie star. His patience and dedication in pursuing this partnership made me realise that I could trust him and so in 1994, I finally said yes. Keep in mind, my biggest Matsuhisa restaurant at the time was only 65 seats and Nobu in Tribeca was going to be 150 seats. I was nervous but I had the best team and I only needed to focus on the sushi bar, the kitchen and the dining room.
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