Homeward bound
Brunch|September 03, 2022
A Gujarati returns to Ahmedabad and finds a city transformed by prosperity, pride and yes, Amul cheese
Homeward bound

For most non-Gujaratis, all Gujarati food is the same. For Gujaratis, however, there are many variations. I am a Mumbai Gujarati, a distinction that may not make sense to those who don't know that till 1960, the state of Gujarat did not exist. Much of what we now call Gujarat and Maharashtra were part of a state called Bombay.

My father was from Rajkot, which is now a part of Gujarat, but which was, when I was born, part of Saurashtra, a state on its own. My mother was from Ahmedabad, which is now the capital of Gujarat.

Gujaratis from all of these cities had different food traditions. Mumbai Gujaratis invented bhelpuri and Pav Bhaji, two dishes that are popular all over India. The food of Saurashtra was (and is) intense and flavourful, with grains such as bajra featuring.

Even in today's Gujarat, cities like Surat have their own cuisine: Surti street food is second only to Mumbai in terms of variety and innovation.

Till recently, Gujaratis treated Ahmedabad rather as Punjabis treat Chandigarh: as a city where the food is bland and uninteresting. Just as Punjabis look to Amritsar, Ludhiana and other cities for culinary excellence, Gujaratis regarded the food of Ahmedabad as being inferior to the food of say, Surat or even Mumbai.

I spent a lot of time in Ahmedabad when I was young because my grandparents lived in a grand house in Shahibag, with maharajs and servants. And though it was all very lavish (they were rich), I found the food unexciting. This was as true of the food in the rest of the city. To eat well in Ahmedabad, you had to eat ice cream (which was always very good) three times a day. And it was largely a vegetarian city: it was hard to get any meat outside of the Muslim localities.

Esta historia es de la edición September 03, 2022 de Brunch.

Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.

Esta historia es de la edición September 03, 2022 de Brunch.

Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.

MÁS HISTORIAS DE BRUNCHVer todo
Avantika Dassani
Brunch

Avantika Dassani

Actor, @AvantikaDassani

time-read
1 min  |
November 23, 2024
Keep your i on this BMW
Brunch

Keep your i on this BMW

The brand's beloved sedan has now gone electric. The i5 M60 has a sci-fi roar and razor-sharp graphics. It's worth the hype

time-read
2 minutos  |
November 23, 2024
Why adapt when you can evolve?
Brunch

Why adapt when you can evolve?

Sometimes, the movie or show does it better than the book it is based on. Here's when to stream not flip

time-read
2 minutos  |
November 23, 2024
Sharp edges, blunt words
Brunch

Sharp edges, blunt words

British chef Heston Blumenthal has gone public about his struggle with ADHD and bipolar syndrome. He hopes it calms kitchens down. It's hot in there already

time-read
3 minutos  |
November 23, 2024
The suitable boy
Brunch

The suitable boy

He's played lovers, taxi drivers, street rats and rich brats. He's redefining what it means to be the token Brown boy on set. But would he be on a reality show? Ishaan Khatter tells us why he's a career chameleon and how he got here

time-read
4 minutos  |
November 23, 2024
Stay stylish in your cubicle
Brunch

Stay stylish in your cubicle

Everyone's back at the office. Covid flexibilities are long forgotten. But being comfortable is still key. So, what are we wearing to work?

time-read
2 minutos  |
November 23, 2024
Fit check? Look behind you
Brunch

Fit check? Look behind you

In gyms, someone is always filming. We are all in the frame without meaning to be. Is privacy at odds with fitness goals? Is consent even possible with all those mirrors?

time-read
2 minutos  |
November 23, 2024
Hey, I found you online
Brunch

Hey, I found you online

Baby pics, emo selfies, old tweets outing the ex. If it makes you cringe, it makes HR departments do too. Here's how to clean up your digital footprint

time-read
3 minutos  |
November 23, 2024
Is It Scrolling Or Screening?
Brunch

Is It Scrolling Or Screening?

Being on the phone while the TV plays is the new normal. Just don't do it when there's company. A case for what it means to be present

time-read
2 minutos  |
November 16, 2024
This week, we're...
Brunch

This week, we're...

Preferring the spinoff.

time-read
2 minutos  |
November 16, 2024