Living with the Romans

The Romans may have long departed, but the remains of their presence are still evident on several country estates. Bronwen Riley meets the proud custodians of these remarkable and sometimes haunting sites

- Bronwen Riley

I WOULD always be rather proud that in Lydney we have a god of our own, a god wholly unknown in any other part of Britain or the world, the God Nodens,' declared the 1st Viscount Bledisloe in 1953. As the only other evidence for this mysterious god appeared at Cockersand Moss, Lancashire, in 1718 and subsequently vanished without trace, Lord Bledisloe may be forgiven his slight exaggeration. For Lydney in Gloucestershire not only has Nodens, but also an entire temple complex, including a possible dormitory where pilgrims seeking a cure could dream divine healing dreams. Many votive offerings have been found here, most exquisite among them a bronze statue of a greyhound, which has become the Lydney mascot and is so precious that the original is confined to the Hades of a bank vault.

Despite these wonders, the current Viscount, Rupert Bathurst, is more reticent than his grandfather, being rightly protective of Lydney's powerful sense of place. 'I would like all who come across it to experience it as understated and magical,' he proffers. As its custodian, I feel a sense of responsibility and that it's important to remain sensitive to the balance of keeping the sense of spirituality, as well as allowing visitors access  to the beauty of the gardens and park.' The approach to the temple, up through the pretty woodland gardens, may mislead visitors into thinking that the site itself might have been tamed. However, on reaching it, the impact of its setting with the River Severn below affords a powerful impression of a more ancient landscape. 'We once had dowsers on site and I must say I was sceptical,' admits Lord Bledisloe. 'But, when they were at the altar, their rods went bonkers, so now I'm not. There really is an energy about the place.'