Out of Andalucía

You don’t have to venture halfway round the world for a good safari, says Sophia Constant, who trials three different horseback adventures in Spain

- Sophia Constant

OUR horses drum a muffled rhythm down sandy paths, among eucalyptus trees, across marshlands and through former royal hunting grounds. Vultures circle above, a herd of red deer tunnels into the shade and fresh lynx tracks leave us sharp with anticipation. We are riding along ancient pilgrimage paths— once used by the brotherhoods of Andalucía, all devoted to the Virgin Mary.

We ride into the town like cowboys in a Western with Ennio Morricone whistling through our minds. Wide dusty boulevards weave their way towards a white cathedral towering over the Plaza Mayor. Every house and bar has a hitching post outside it and you can order sundowners—typically manzanilla, a Spanish fortified wine similar to fine sherry—without getting off your horse.

A short flight from London, I’m off grid, enjoying a trio of horse safaris that reveal the charms of rural Spain; adventures to rival those I’ve had in Africa and Argentina, without circling the planet for the privilege. I am riding through wild landscapes packed with history, fascinating people and, of course, great food and wine.

My week-long ride with Equiberia takes me and my fellow riders through the Sierra de Gredos mountains, almost on Madrid’s doorstep, yet remarkably unknown. Maria Elena Dendaluce, Equiberia’s founder and chief guide, connects riders with the countryside and, importantly, the right horse, with remarkable intuition. We trot happily through the kaleidoscopic splendour of Gredos: protected pine forests cast in soft autumn light, prairies flanked by rugged hills perfect for long canters, rocky mountains passes, villages and farmland studded with traditional stone shepherd huts.