A BALMY MORNING in June, I arrived early for my appointment with Mariano Rubinacci, whose atelier overlooks cobbled streets that stitch together the very small, very exclusive world of bespoke Neapolitan tailoring. Perched above a flagship store selling shirts and ties, his sartoria, or tailoring shop, is located in the 16th-century Palazzo Cellamare. The Bay of Naples is close enough to perfume its entrance with each gust of wind blown inland from the Mediterranean Sea; inside, the dewy summer air mingles with the smell of good coffee, fine fabric, and old money. Naples is Italy's third-largest city, but in tailoring it is second to none. Those who doubt this can check the paperwork: In an ornate frame hanging on the wall of Rubinacci's salon is a weathered document from 1941 addressed to his father, Gennaro, from the Prince of Piedmont, appointing him as clothier to Italy's royal family.
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