INDIA CALLING

Meet five global contemporary jewellery designers who are proudly championing 'made in India'.

- RADHIKA SOMALA

The mystique of India and its rich tradition of craft has captivated the imagination of global jewellers for millennia. Cartier's love affair with India dates back to 1911, marking a defining moment in western jewellery lore when Mr Cartier embarked on a journey to India, delving into the nation's precious gems and jewels. By 1925, the once diamond, pearl, and platinum-centric collections transformed into colourful cabochons and carved gems. Echoes of traditional Mughal treasures reverberated through Cartier's motifs, encapsulating the fusion of cultures and craftsmanship.

The allure of this country permeates down to a growing cohort of global independent jewellers, drawn to the immersive sensory experience that India has to offer. "I had lots of hazy ideas about India gleaned from Merchant ivory movies and growing up in the V&A pouring over Indian textiles, miniatures, and ivory carved boats," remembers British jewellery designer Alice Cicolini, who moved to India to work as a curator for the British Council. "My time in India was the portal I walked through in my transformation from curator to designer," reflects Alice, expressing gratitude for the part India played in her journey.

Another designer who traversed a different path before launching a career in jewellery is Parisian cult designer Marie Litchenberg. "You might be familiar with the song 'London Calling, but for me, it was 'India Calling"," she shares. Marie first ventured into India to explore the possibilities of hand embroidery, crafting blouses and dresses embellished with exquisite buttons from Gem Palace. "The infinite refinement and audacity of this country, the taste, the omnipresent beauty it's a country of insane intensity, with inspiration everywhere. India gave me my chance," she adds.