THE RETURN OF THE GRANDE DAME

Ritu Kumar returned to Indian Couture Week after a decade with a collection that was modern yet rooted in tradition.

- SMITA TRIPATHI

On a balmy Wednesday evening in the last week of July, fashion lovers from across the city had gathered at the Taj Palace Hotel, New Delhi. It was the second day of the FDCI x Hyundai India Couture Week and there was palpable excitement for the show that was about to begin. Not surprising, considering it was the grande dame of Indian fashion, Ritu Kumar’s return to couture week after a gap of 10 years. As the show began and models sashayed down the ramp in heavily embroidered classics like the Anarkali kurta, printed saris draped in several ways, lehangas and shararas, along with western styles like bodysuits, short jackets and gowns, all elevated by statement-making footwear, think knee-length boots and broad heels, you knew the OG (incidentally the name of the collection as well) was back. The show that incorporated the lexicon of classic Ritu Kumar designs—paisley patterns, vegetable-dye prints and gold dabka work—was a tribute to a legacy which has weathered the strains of fashion trends and time. It is worn alike by grandmothers and Gen Z—something which was evident as you glanced around at the audience, where most were dressed in one of her creations, age notwithstanding. Aditi Rao Hydari, stunned as the showstopper in a resplendent ivory lehanga with a jacket-style blouse adorned with intricate handwork. But it was the standing ovation that Ms Kumar got at the end of the show that left goosebumps on those of us who have admired her work and her dedication for Indian handlooms and handicrafts for decades.