Uncovering the Layers

Polki and kundan jewellery are more than adornments they are repositories of history.

- RICHA GOYAL SIKRI

Polki-kundan jewellery has become an essential part of any Indian bride's wedding trousseau. You may think this was always the case. Yet, historically, polki-kundan jewellery was predominantly linked to select royal and affluent communities. Front and centre were the Rajput royals. Their patronage led to the development of the polki-kundan craft in cities of Rajasthan such as Jaipur and Bikaner. Under the Mughals, artisans blended Persian elements with Hindustani designs. The Marwari and Bania communities, as well as wealthy landowners and merchants from Gujarat and affluent families from Punjab, also showed a preference for polkikundan jewellery.

The shift of polki-kundan jewellery from a local and community-oriented choice to a popular trend across the country began in 2008 with its prominent portrayal in the Hindi film Jodhaa Akbar (2008). The historic epics showcased elaborate jewellery in its portrayal of Mughalera royalty.

Polki-kundan jewellery incorporates three elements in its creation. Polki refers to the diamond slice, meenakari is enamel work, and the kundan technique sets the polki using layers of 24-carat gold foil.

Polki

Polki is often mistakenly called an uncut diamond. This misunderstanding likely stems from the fact that a polki (diamond) lacks the faceted sparkle found in a conventional diamond. In the modern context, polki is a thin (flat) slice of diamond that is polished. A variant of polki that has grown in popularity is 'English polki', which features facets only on one side and is thicker than a traditional polki diamond.