The Shrimp Show
New York magazine|July 1-14, 2024
San Sabino makes maximalist seafood for the social-media age.
MATTHEW SCHNEIER
The Shrimp Show

NEW YORK DINING is subject to endless trends and booms, and the wheel of proteins always spins: burger flexing, farmhouse pork chops, the wide world of cutlets and parms. These days, the glassy eye of my dinner stares back at me: Fish's time has arrived. Seafood places such as Penny and Theodora have been joined by the likes of Il Totano (named for Italian squid) and Strange Delight. More and more, the city's unbookable spots are marine-curious.

Angie Rito and Scott Tacinelli's Don Angie was born during an earlier era of New York trends, the post-Torrisi red-sauce revival, but has maintained its near impenetrability right up to the present day. They have proven canny readers of the current moment. For the pair's second restaurant, San Sabino, which opened in March three doors down from the Don, they apply their Southern Italian American spin to fish.

From the start, San Sabino has been-thanks in part to its ubiquity on TikTok-as jammed as Angie. I gave up on stalking the restaurant's Resy page and resigned myself to trying the line that forms at its door every day. At 4:28 p.m. on a recent Thursday, I was the 12th person waiting. For three seats at the bar, the quoted wait was two hours and 45 minutes.

Esta historia es de la edición July 1-14, 2024 de New York magazine.

Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.

Esta historia es de la edición July 1-14, 2024 de New York magazine.

Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.

MÁS HISTORIAS DE NEW YORK MAGAZINEVer todo
Trapped in Time
New York magazine

Trapped in Time

A woman relives the same day in a stunning Danish novel.

time-read
6 minutos  |
Nov 18-Dec 1, 2024
Polyphonic City
New York magazine

Polyphonic City

A SOFT, SHIMMERING beauty permeates the images of Mumbai that open Payal Kapadia's All We Imagine As Light. For all the nighttime bustle on display-the heave of people, the constant activity and chaos-Kapadia shoots with a flair for the illusory.

time-read
3 minutos  |
Nov 18-Dec 1, 2024
Lear at the Fountain of Youth
New York magazine

Lear at the Fountain of Youth

Kenneth Branagh's production is nipped, tucked, and facile.

time-read
5 minutos  |
Nov 18-Dec 1, 2024
A Belfast Lad Goes Home
New York magazine

A Belfast Lad Goes Home

After playing some iconic Americans, Anthony Boyle is a beloved IRA commander in a riveting new series about the Troubles.

time-read
5 minutos  |
Nov 18-Dec 1, 2024
The Pluck of the Irish
New York magazine

The Pluck of the Irish

Artists from the Indiana-size island continue to dominate popular culture. Online, they've gained a rep as the \"good Europeans.\"

time-read
8 minutos  |
Nov 18-Dec 1, 2024
Houston's on Houston
New York magazine

Houston's on Houston

The Corner Store is like an upscale chain for downtown scene-chasers.

time-read
3 minutos  |
Nov 18-Dec 1, 2024
A Brownstone That's Pink Inside
New York magazine

A Brownstone That's Pink Inside

Artist Vivian Reiss's Murray Hill house of whimsy.

time-read
3 minutos  |
Nov 18-Dec 1, 2024
These Jeans Made Me Gay
New York magazine

These Jeans Made Me Gay

The Citizens of Humanity Horseshoe pants complete my queer style.

time-read
2 minutos  |
Nov 18-Dec 1, 2024
Manic, STONED, Throttle, No Brakes
New York magazine

Manic, STONED, Throttle, No Brakes

Less than six months after her Gagosian sölu show, the artist JAMIAN JULIANO-VILLAND lost her gallery and all her money and was preparing for an exhibition with two the biggest living American artists.

time-read
10+ minutos  |
Nov 18-Dec 1, 2024
WHO EVER THOUGHT THAT BRIGHT PINK MEAT THAT LASTS FOR WEEKS WAS A GOOD IDEA?
New York magazine

WHO EVER THOUGHT THAT BRIGHT PINK MEAT THAT LASTS FOR WEEKS WAS A GOOD IDEA?

Deli Meat Is Rotten

time-read
10+ minutos  |
Nov 18-Dec 1, 2024