Blood, Sweat and Tears

These four young hawker chefs are working to preserve Singapore’s unique food culture for future generations

- Dawson Tan

YOU FU FRIED HOKKIEN PRAWN NOODLE

ANDRE ONG

At 14, Andre Ong was strong‑armed into helping out his dad at Changi Village Fried Hokkien Mee, where he switched between tending to the till and the dishwasher. Little did he know that his casual attempt at frying a plate of Hokkien mee would trigger a fervent passion for cooking. After 11 years of working at various hawker stalls and Western restaurants, and disheartened that heritage food is slowly disappearing as many hawker stalwarts are unwilling to pass down their recipes, Ong decided to pursue the hawker trade full‑time. In 2020, the 25‑year‑old opened You Fu Fried Hokkien Prawn Noodle in Golden Mile Food Centre to honour the dish that started it all.

He debuted with his dad’s recipe, but was quick on his feet to tweak it to suit the palates of Hokkien mee fans. Soon, the stall—which was then run by him and his brother, but is now solely operated by the latter and renamed Shiok Hokkien Mee—garnered crowds and media attention. Riding on its success, Ong roped in his dad and brother for expansion, opening outposts around the island. In the name of friendly competition, the stalls under the You Fu umbrella sport different names, with each family member managing his own “brand”—Ong, for instance, helms Fu Zai Enterprise, with stalls at Woodlands and Kovan. The recipes may vary across outlets, but no matter which diners visit, they can still expect an umami‑laden plate with bouncy noodles imbued with the kiss of the wok.

ROLINA TRADITIONAL HAINANESE CURRY PUFF