Postcards from the Tankwa

The R355 between Ceres and Calvinia is the longest stretch of gravel road between two towns in South Africa. And if you find yourself on this route, you're in the Tankwa Karoo. From the road, the surrounding plains seem lifeless and dull, but when you stop your car, sit quietly and breathe in the atmosphere, you realise there might just be much waiting to be discovered here.

- ADRIAAN OOSTHUIZEN

Rock solid

I met Jakob van Wyk by the side of the road in the Hammelhoek area. I saw something of the Roggeveld Mountains in the creases on his face, almost as though the mountains' mere presence left their mark on Jakob. To me, his weathered jacket and pipe, along with the goats in the background, depict steadfastness in a remarkable way.

Where does the Tankwa begin and end? This question elicits a wide variety of responses, depending on whom you ask. Sure, there are geographical boundaries on maps, as well as different plant biomes and geological features. But my personal feeling is that the Tankwa starts as soon as you pass the longest avenue of fig trees that I know of, and the sky and the plains open up in front of you as you drive through Karoopoort.

That's where the Tankwa starts.

The gigantic basin is bordered in the west by the Cederberg and in the east by the Roggeveld Mountains. The Swartruggens hills lie to the south, and the Hantam Mountains to the north. The Tankwa Karoo is part of the Great Karoo, but its enclosure by these mountains creates the impression of a separate entity. Locals refer to the centre of the basin as the Tankwa, and this is also where the Tankwa Karoo National Park is situated. They call the southern part the Ceres Karoo.

My mission, however, wasn't to study the area's geography, but to explore the places and meet the people of this remote environment. I fancy myself a type of modern-day explorer, using my camera to share my discoveries and observations. After all, it's any explorer's duty to document what they find. I also wanted to add meaning to the moment in time in which I found myself. As soon as I met some of the people of the Tankwa Karoo, it was clear they all share a certain pride in their heritage.