Tried & true

Greek grandmothers take food writer Anastasia Miari into their homes and share their time-perfected recipes.

- Anastasia Miari

Traditionally in Greece, soul-soothing giouvarlakia are paired with an avgolemono (egg and lemon) sauce, but Yiayia Poly is not a purist so she makes a tomato sauce to sit her meatballs in instead. An Athenian yiayia (grandmother) with a modern sensibility and cutting humour that’s as sharp as her nose, Poly serves her giouvarlakia with a tipple of beer, crusty bread and hunks of feta.

In a large saucepan, combine the passata, stock, olive oil, pepper and sugar, then bring to the boil. Cover, reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 15-20 minutes while you prepare the meatballs.

Drain any excess liquid from the grated onions, then transfer to a bowl. Add the beef, egg, salt, pepper, parsley and rice and use your hands to combine.

Pour a little flour onto a plate, ready to coat your meatballs.

Roll the meat mixture into golf-ball-sized-spheres, dipping each meatball into the plate of flour so that it is lightly dusted all over before setting aside on a large plate or tray.

Once you’ve rolled all the meat into balls, add them to the pot of sauce and ensure they are entirely covered by the liquid. If you need to you can add a dash of water so that the liquid just covers the meatballs. Cover and simmer over a medium heat for 20-30 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened. If it’s still on the watery side, simmer uncovered for a little longer.

Serves 6.

AT RENA’S GRAND old house in Mytilene, on the island of Lesvos, I’m treated to sougania, a meze dish I’ve never had before.