At home in India's eternal city

Every time I visit Banaras, I leave with a wish to return to its warm embrace. The superficial reason is that there is so much to see that one life-time is just not enough. The deeper reason is a thirst for an opportunity to experience stillness amidst the chaos of a city that seems as ancient as beginningless time. The calming presence of the river Ganga has a mysterious pull not only for worshippers but also for those who seek nourishment in the lap of nature.

- CHINTAN GIRISH MODI

This back story of my relationship with the place should tell you why I was excited to read Banaras: A Journey into the Heart of the City, a book by Vertul Singh who has worked for the Indian Army, served as a spokesperson for the United Nations Police in Kosovo, and been on deputation to the Ministry of Home Affairs. Not only did it meet my expectations, it surpassed them. It taught me things that a tourist or pilgrim might never know; only Banarasis would because the city is their home, not just a destination to flaunt on Instagram reels.

Mr Singh tells us, for instance, that "the traditional Banarasi breakfast of kachori-and-jalebi undergoes a seasonal metamorphosis". In the winter, jalebi is served with hot milk. In the summer, it is served with curd. Moreover, the "stuffing in the kachori may change from moong or urad to fresh sweet green peas". In this age when everything is available at any time, thanks to advancement in technology, this adherence to a seasonal cycle might appear dated but it is also a reminder of how things seemed more precious when we had to wait.