But that has not stopped a table at The River Café in Hammersmith enduring as one of the capital's hottest gastronomic tickets since it opened in 1987, with A-list celebrities from Sir Paul McCartney and Harrison Ford to Emily Blunt and Gwyneth Paltrow beating a path to its door.
From this week less well-heeled fans of Ruthie Rogers' Italian-influenced cooking, who might baulk at a £300 bill for dinner for two, will get the chance to sample a pared down taste of the cuisine that made her one of the most famous names in the London restaurant scene - for a fraction of the cost.
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