But its future is increasingly precarious, and the ship has become a growing flashpoint in some of the world's most disputed waters.
The Sierra Madre, marooned on Second Thomas Shoal, in the Spratly Islands, since 1999, is effectively a shipwreck. Defence experts question how much longer it can last - and the Philippines faces a difficult decision about what to do next.
So too might the US, which has a mutual defence treaty with Manila, and considers the South China Sea, one of the world's busiest shipping routes, strategically important.
Esta historia es de la edición November 10, 2023 de The Guardian Weekly.
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Esta historia es de la edición November 10, 2023 de The Guardian Weekly.
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I'm not ashamed to say that as soon as September hits, my stick blender comes out. Just as I embrace salads when the clocks go forward in the UK, I wholeheartedly throw myself into soup season once the summer holidays end. Autumn is approaching in the northern hemisphere and I'm ready with my ladle. Celeriac is one of my favourite soup heroes, because it gives the creamiest, silkiest finish with little effort. You don't have to make the almond pangrattato, but it is a wonderful addition.
Are smoke signals telling me to make an oil change in the kitchen?
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