The word fusion, as applied to food, has lost the judgemental sting it had in the past. Discussions around cuisine “authenticity” and cultural appropriation continue to be had, but there are enough instances of talented chefs producing considered, informed and – best of all – delicious incarnations of fusion food that people no longer automatically wince when they hear the term. One of the latest exponents of wince-free fusion is chef Mino Han at his excellent laneway diner Alt Pasta Bar.
Alt has taken over the space once occupied by the sadly deceased Korean restaurant Shik and has kept the best parts of that exposed brick, glamorously shadowy room while expanding the central bar into an open kitchen and losing the hip-hop soundtrack. It’s cosier and less raucous than its predecessor, which suits the pasta bar intentions.
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Esta historia es de la edición June 2023 de Gourmet Traveller.
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Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
