A SLICE OF PARADISE

A SHORT DRIVE AWAY FROM SRINAGAR IS A SECLUDED LUXURY RETREAT HIDDEN IN A FOREST, WHERE SLOTH BEARS AND HANGULS (STAGS) ROAM FREE

- ANINDITA GHOSH

"KASHMIR KA MAUSAM aur halaat, dono ka bharosa nahin hai; pata nahin kab badal jaye," said Altaf, my taxi driver, on our way to Qayaam Gah. The luxury boutique property, set against the backdrop of the Zabarwan Hills on the outskirts of Srinagar, would be my home for the next few days.

On the day I arrived, the sky was a brilliant blue, and the sun was blistering hot, uncharacteristic for this time of the year—September typically signals the end of Kashmir's summer season. The streets of Srinagar were busy, bustling with the minutiae of everyday life—children returning from school, vendors hawking their wares, people going about their business, handsome taxi drivers lounging around, women circling the upcountry panipuri wallahs and, armed security personnel every few metres.

I didn't see many tourists, but Altaf insisted it was only a temporary lull before the Dussehra-Diwali rush began.

MOUNTAIN ESCAPE 

We drive past the Dal, cross the serene Nigeen Lake, and arrive at Brein village before beginning the climb uphill to Qayaam Gah. As we drive up, there are fewer houses and more trees, the Zabarwan Hills are closer, and the air is crisp and clear. Qayaam Gah sits at a higher elevation than the rest of the settlements in the area and can only be approached by a country road.

At first glance, the retreat is enchanting, with soaring, thickly forested mountains on one side and views of the shimmering Dal in the far distance on the other. The four luxury villas and three rooms stand on a clearing on the hillside amidst a profusion of wild plants and flowers. I loved the air of shambolic disarray, a respectful attempt to blend into the surroundings.