OFF CIRCUIT

FROM THE CITIES TO THE COUNTRYSIDE, THE OFTEN OVERLOOKED LAOS THRUMS WITH LIFE AND BEAUTY

- SHIKHA TRIPATHI

SITTING AT THE EDGE OF A TURQUOISE LAGOON, I watch a young boy dive headlong into its waters. He slices the blue neatly like a freshly sharpened sword as his circle of teenage friends burst into applause. The cheering dies and the silence of the jungle takes over again. I continue to soak in the unbelievably pristine surroundings until I get on my rented scooter and ride back to Vang Vieng, my second pitstop on my journey through Laos.

When I first picked the country, I was shortlisting places that met my checklist—a country I had not been to, one that offered visa-on-arrival, was pocket-friendly, and women-friendly. I kept missing it on the map as it was tucked in between the popular Thailand-CambodiaVietnam circuit I had traversed years ago with a friend. I planned to go solo this time, and just like the missing piece in a puzzle, Laos fell right into place. The country is incredibly affordable for Indians, with INR 1 equivalent to Laotian kip 256. While many travellers choose to fly directly to its most magnetic district, Luang Prabang, I was in favour of relishing the destination slowly on a two-week trip that allowed me plenty of time to fit in smaller places. So, I started with its often-overlooked capital, Vientiane.

The riverfront is Vientiane's most popular stretch. It runs parallel to the Mekong, the lifeline of Laos, which runs through six major countries of the Indo-China basin. I took in its calm views on a mile-long stroll down the waterfront. The stretch turns lively in the evenings with open-air cafés and bars, barbecue joints with giant lobsters on the grill, and vendors selling pork cuts lining the sidewalk. The stretch ends with a typical Southeast Asian night market being set up. The Patuxai, or "Victory Gate," in downtown Vientiane, which I see later on my way out, lies in stark contrast. The exquisite monument is more a haunt for Laotian families than travellers.