Through Time and Tide

From the historic trails of Muharraq to the fleeting sands of Jarada Island, Bahrain echoes with the resilience of its erstwhile pearl divers, discovers Adila Matra.

YEARS AGO, AROUND THE early 1900s, the old Muharraq settlement of Bahrain was the Arabian Gulf's pearling capital. The industry was the lifeblood of the region, connecting everyone. Pearl divers were the unsung heroes and pearl merchants the pillars of the community. Then there were dhow captains, boat builders, and timber merchants.

Today, Muharraq stands as a reminder of this glorious past. It is the starting point of the Pearling Path in Bahrain, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and where I now stand. The colossal concrete columns and walls and a patterned roof designed by Valerio Olgiati architects provide respite from the afternoon sun and also incorporate the ruins of Ammarat Yousif Ali Fakhro, a storehouse complex built in the 1930s. "This was the urban centre where pearl divers would sell their catch," says Khalid AI Mushari, the guide for our group.

The trail through Muharraq is around four kilometres long; on the way are traditional restored Bahraini houses that once belonged to pearl merchants and divers, whitewashed houses, and streetlamps shaped like pearls to indicate you are on the right trail. We stop by the Mohammed Bin Faris House that once belonged to a singer on one of the pearling dhows. It is now a venue for music performances. The Nukhida House originally owned by Nukhida Jassim Ajaj, the captain of the dhow, was where he conducted business and established social network. Here, I spot a framed pearling license from the 1900s.