Fate had directed me to Estancia Cristina. A COVID-19 outbreak had cancelled my planned Antarctic cruise from Ushuaia, so my hastily arranged Plan B was to explore Argentinian Patagonia. At first, it felt like no more than a consolation prize, as I couldn't imagine replicating the beauty of the frozen continent. But I couldn't have been more wrong.
There are no roads to this estancia (ranch), just a lavishly scenic three-hour boat transfer from El Calafate to the western edge of Lake Argentino, where the preternaturally teal-blue water meets Upsala Glacier. What was originally a sheep farm, created in 1914 by pioneers Jessie and Joseph Percival Masters, now lies within the boundaries of Los Glaciares National Park. It's a setting to savour. Like a South American Shangri-La, Estancia Cristina sits within a luminous green valley surrounded by snowy mountains.
Esta historia es de la edición February/March 2023 de Wanderlust Travel Magazine.
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Esta historia es de la edición February/March 2023 de Wanderlust Travel Magazine.
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See a side to the USA and Canada beyond the big cities and discover incredible stories and special wildlife with our pick of the trips
The call of the Rockies
From historic ski lodges to rustic backcountry cabins and a mock-Scottish castle, we pick the stays in Canada's Rocky Mountains that make the most of their setting
A new dawn for the Garifuna community
When the Garifuna people settled in Belize, they had to carry their traditions and culture with them; now a new trail is inviting visitors to explore this heritage through local communities
On the edge of history
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Tigers burning bright
As India celebrates 50 years of its Project Tiger conservation scheme, we visit the reserves of Madhya Pradesh to see how its success has impacted a tiger population that once looked in danger of disappearing
SEASON'S GREETINGS
From fiery fall foliage to art fairs and harvest festivals, opens up a wealth of across the USA and Canada autumn experiences
Waking a sleeping GIANT
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The rebirth of old JEDDAH
As efforts to restore Al-Balad, Jeddah's historical district, take hold, we get an exclusive peek at how art and culture are taking centre stage
Star-studded escapes
Wilderness, history and wildlife combine at some of Britain's most iconic stargazing sites, as more and more travellers are looking to the heavens