The Collezioni Ideas series, of which “T-SHIRTS” is the third volume, is intended to be a source of inspiration, almost a designer divertissement, offering the reader the pleasure of browsing through the themes on offer with agility and imagination, following a common thread of emotions and atmospheres.

“Be authentic” reads the heading on the cover of this new edition of Sport&Street;. A theme, that of authenticity, that allows us to describea world in all its facets: that of creativity, of the link with our roots, of the simplicity that favours simple, clean shapes. In a historic moment that takes us to be disoriented and pushed by an infinity of external stimuli, being authentic means finding a safe haven, sheltered from the perennial uncertainty of the contemporary. But how is this concept expressed? For a historic brand like Woolrich, to whom Sport&Street; dedicates the cover and a monograph, authenticity lies in the awareness of its own roots and tradition.

 “The Chaos Theory”. As Danilo Venturi, the president of the most important school in Italy, suggested in his interview in the In Conversation With section, let’s embrace this Beautiful Chaos. Because from disorder and chaos, an amazingly exciting new order can indeed arise.

In order to create a comprehensive panorama of the most important and relevant seasonal trends, in this specific issue of the Spring/Summer 2019 season, in our pages you will also find a preview of textiles for the Fall/Winter 2019 season. In order to offer our readers a carefully blended cocktail of moods and feelings where all ingredients communicate and interact with each other in a cross-check referencing among the past, the present and the future.

Hence we have given ample space to the latest generation of Italian fashion designers such as Federico Cina, Simon Cracker and Alessandro Enriquez. By the same token, there are pages and pages dedicated to the Old School, to such iconic and historic brands like Woolrich, Fred Perry,  Barbour and Iceberg. Because “The Old” is, more often than not, as important as “The New”.

As per usual, this issue of Sport&Street; focuses on the seasonal must have items in the Buyer’s Guide, on the most interesting international brands in the Focus On and in the Sport&Street; sections, on the latest kinder to the planet collections and range in the Go Green section.

In or Out? When my team and I choose the In/Out title for this issue, entirely focused on the most interesting and original Autumn/Winter 2018 collections from across the globe, we were most certainly not referring to the dreaded and dreadful What’s In and What’s Out lists. We were rather thinking alongside the lines of indoors and outdoors, hence the strong focus on outerwear in all photo shoots, with garments captured either in indoor and outdoor environments. We were indeed thinking more alongside the in and out of consciousness state, the mindfulness that is reachable through meditation. Perhaps because engaged in a process of cleansing from the barrage of impurities within the contemporary fashion scene and from the overload of information, data and content in contemporary life? Perhaps in search of the purity, the rigour, the essence that is nowadays somehow missing in today’s fashion and in our lives?
Perhaps arranging an attempt to escape from reality to make reality better?
My team and I prefer not to provide you with the answers to the above-mentioned questions. We
prefer to invite you to start a personal quest about finding out what should be in your life and
should be out of your life. But, even if we cannot and will not provide you with those type of answers, we invite to peruse carefully through the pages of this issue of Sport&Street; to find out more about the upcoming colder season. We hope you will enjoy the In Conversation With section with interviews with
leading fashion professionals and our comprehensively thorough Buyer's Guide and Street Catwalks
sections. We hope you will approve the fact that this issue features a greater number of female fashion designers and fashion students than ever before and that we continue to support labels and brands that adhere

Hence the stronger than ever focus on denim, a cornerstone of the Sport&Street; world, both in terms on anticipations for the seasons to come and as a summary of the current season. Hence the decision to go backstage at a number of fashion shows and presentations during the last edition of ModaLisboa in order to provide a view and point of view that we feel are more real than the classic catwalk images. We felt it was also time to dig deeper into Athleisure, a theme that we have featured constantly in recent years.

We also felt compulsory to dedicate an entire section to collections that are consciously kind to our planet. Hence the debut of the brand new Go Green section where we are going to feature, from this issue onwards, only and exclusively brands and labels that focus on green fashion.

As usual, this latest issue of our magazine contains the Buyers Guide with 50-odd pages of unmissable items across every possible industry segments alongside a selection of the most interesting menswear and womenswear fashion shows from across the globe. As usual, you will find in the pages of this issue the I Shop Therefore I Am article, featuring six directional multi-brand retailers from all over the world. Last but certainly not least, a whole series of feature articles on brands, labels and designers that we consider to be the most interesting at the moment.

The world of denim: AW/2018 and S/S 2019 preview
Brand new Go Green section
Buyer’s guide. Over 50 pages of must have items
All the best brands in the world

We at Sport&Street; are also becoming increasingly more and more passionate about eco and green issues. Therefore, this issue has more pages than usual dedicated to what is undeniably a revolutionary change of attitude in the way we live our lives and in the way we perceive, purchase, consume fashion. Our London Contributing Editor Peppe Orrù, for example, examines the multifaceted world of eco fashion in the ‘Is Green The New Black?’ feature while his regular feature ‘I Shop Therefore I Am’ focuses exclusively on “pro-planet” international retailers.
We at Sport&Street; have indeed many passions, most of them focused onto the present and onto the future, some of them referring to the past. Hence, the ‘Suburban Love’ editorial by Sylvain Homo invokes atmospheres clearly inspired by the 1980s, the ‘Trainspotters’ editorial by Rocco Bizarri suggests moods that refer to the 90s and the ‘Reluctant Self Portraits’ editorial by Federico Ferrari brings us back to the beginning of the new millennium.
This new issue also contains the Buyer’s Guide section with 50 pages of carefully selected products, a selection of the most interesting Catwalk Shows from across the world, a number of interviews in the In Conversation With section and features on the most exciting brands and labels from across the planet in the Style Musts and Focus On sections.
Enjoy and, whenever you can, Go Green.

For the next SS/17, we featured an even bigger number of exciting brands from all over the world. As usual, we went around the world looking for the most inspiring directional retailers. As usual, we asked internationally renowned photographers and stylists to interpret the season exclusively for Sport&Street;. As usual, we scoured the most important fashion weeks in the world and the best international trade shows and showrooms on a search for the best collections and the best clothes and accessories in the world.
But, because we feel we all deserve more and we all deserve better we have also decided to conduct a in-depth analysis on denim new developments after having travelled to Berlin, London, Milan, Paris and Berlin. And we also have decided to debut with 'In Conversation With', a brand new section comprising of interviews with key figures of the amazing world of contemporary directional fashion, sportswear and streetwear. 
Enjoy this 'Ride On' issue and see you again in June.
The world of denim: Berlin, London, Milan, Paris, New York
Buyer’s guide: all the must have items
Brand new interview section


More pages, more than 40 articles, more than 130 brands, more content for an Autumn/Winter 2016 in the name of keywords like genuineness and authenticity, validity and originality, leitmotifs of the conversation with David Tognetti, the new creative director at Oakley. A need for authenticity and reality that we have tried to capture not only in the three photo shoots, one whose protagonists are some students of the Istituto Europeo di Design (IED) in Milan, the other a set of characters from London and finally the third dedicated to a boxer, as a whispered hint of the forthcoming Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro. But also in all the other sections of the magazine, from the Buyers' Guide to the Catwalks, from the Style Musts to the News. An issue of our magazine that wants to read next season like a reportage, looking for reality and authenticity, for true and original stories, for originality and innovation with an anthropological approach, between fashion and reality.
 
Highlights_
Reportage
Authenticy and realness   
More than 200 pages
More than 40 articles
More than 130 brands
More than 150 proposal

It is always challenging trying to summarise an entire season into a single issue of a magazine. How? First and foremost, with the editorials, one dedicated to the young emerging talents from Portugal, the other focused on a subtle interpretation of the military theme. Secondly, with a number of feature articles on our favourite brands and labels from across the globe. Thirdly, with an exam of which brands the most directional stores across the globe are currently stocking, followed by our comprehensive Buyers Guide, carefully divided by trends and product categories. And then, last but certainly not least, a selection of our favourite catwalk shows from the most important international fashion weeks.
What have we found out in our extensive research? There are several new themes which will be extremely important for Autumn/Winter 2016. An attitude that we have summarised with the ‘Young At Heart’ title, as age does not matter any longer and there is not such a thing as age-appropriated clothes any more. What matters is that end consumer choices are no longer dictated by age but by lifestyle. Also very important, the fact that performance sportswear and technical activewear are doing extremely well in both sport-related and purely urban settings. Basically, sportswear meets ready-to-wear, as perfectly epitomised by Erreà Republic, NO KA 'OI and Laain. The reinterpretation in urban key of the traditional codes of classic menswear also stands out. 
Welcome to a globalised world where everything is cross-pollinated.

YOUNG AT HEART

Focus on Sport

Style Tour, 58 pages!

International Retail Therapy

Lisbon Fashion Scene

 Spring/Summer 2016: it is always, without fail, about denim. Therefore, we interpreted this age-old fabric in its infinite expressions. And we found it new, surprising. As when, for example as illustrated in the ’In praise of contradiction’ feature about denim on the international catwalks, denim wears emblems and shapes suitable to suggest childhood, playfulness, the evil hidden in the heart of innocence as the case of the fashion shows by Ashish, I'm Isola Marras, Alexander McQueen, Holly Fulton. Or, as when it becomes rational and deconstructionist, brainy and postmodern, as in the case of Ports 1961, Kenzo, Chloé, Vector, Marques’ Almeida. Needless to say, the catwalks leave the field to the true know-how of the streetwear giants and of the avant-garde labels, born from rigorous field-testing with end customers. If G-Star RAW decorates the very low waist women’s jeans with dripping effects, Mastercraft Union works on loose fits, washes, tears. Teen jeanswear by Otho, easy-going and urban denim for the men’s trunks by Paura. And if the neutrality of denim as adolescent uniform can become a language, so can also its adoption as one of its great mythical universes of affinity. As illustrated in the ‘The horse whisperer’ photo shoot, dedicated to the eternal appeal of the cowboy of American movies.

 

HIGHLIGHTS

DENIM SPECIAL
URBAN WOMENSWEAR STYLE
NEW NORMAL CODES
THE BEST GLOBAL DIRECTIONAL RETAILERS


The winning formula for Spring/Summer 2016 is “melting’ pop”’, i.e. the ability to mix, even more than before, irony with style codes, trends, product categories, end uses, lands of origin into the very much beloved must-have items of the wardrobe of the near future. Founded by Emeric Tchatchoua, French of Cameroonian origins, and by Raymond Cheu, Chinese from Hong Kong, 3.Paradis is a multi-ethnic label that draws a hybrid vision from its “meltin’” matrix. Its language codes suggest a comfortable and inspired by nature streetwear, targeting urbanised hyper-connected consumers and somehow preserving their psychological well-being. The reflective prints and the reinterpreted camouflage, similar in appearance to many Danish rural areas, are the key to the Spring/Summer collection by Arrogant Artists, another label in search for inspiration with natural roots and for a more authentic lifestyle. The analysis of Dutch designer Camiel Fortgens results instead in a critique of the total mash-up in which we are immersed, characterised by the copy-and-paste culture. Fun-filled and immersed in pop Japanese streetwear pop culture, the jeanswear and streetwear by Cheap Monday makes fun  of the fictional world of the supermarket mysticism imported from the Far East and specifically devised for our self-centred selfishness in the prints on sweatshirts and T-shirts. 

 

Focus on sweatshirts
The 15 new top brands
Urbanwear deconstructed
International fairs trends

Today’s wardrobe is characterised by principles of total customisation. The macro trends at work are the "double bind" between fashion and performance, between knitwear and technical fabrics, between workwear and tailoring. The winning formula is still a "cut and paste" approach from different reference areas and historical contexts: the urban utility jacket, for example, is clearly inspired by mountaineering just like military meets streetwear and punk and rock are integrated into a rather bourgeois dandy look. The evanescence of the season matches the evaporation of traditional gender stereotypes: Peppe Orrù, our Contributing Fashion Editor in London, highlights its importance in the ‘I Shop Therefore I Am’ feature by informing us of the opening of Agender, a new unisex retail concept introduced in the Selfridges flagship store in Oxford Street in London. As highlighted in the Buyer's Guide, outerwear identifies parkas, trench coats, bombers, perfectos, and down jackets as the cult items for the season. Jeanswear introduces alongside denim, or matches denim, with fabrics from different origins, even classic ones, fishing out again vintage style codes and maximising the role of washes and finishes for wet, waxed, and waterproof effects.

The new outerwear must have items 
Top accessories in the buyer's guide
Underground luxury: the dominant trend
Urban dweller looks
Multifunctional clothing and accessories

With an increasingly faster pace, the fashion system must indeed look to solutions from a past when there was still time to innovate, when garment construction excellence was the norm and the tool to win against competitors. In regards to streetwear and sportswear for example, the position of a pocket on a military jacket was pondered on to the millimetre. And although nowadays camouflage patterns go in and out offashion with a speed only possible within the fashion system, the design of a pattern capable of perfect mimicry responds to mathematical algorithms with a “story” on which military clothing performance depends. Looking backwards provides with a simultaneous capacity to explore the future and with a binary vision that can seize upon what the ever more demanding end consumers loudly demand. Talking about the intersection between function and form, we noticed the urbanization of outdoors apparel and accessories, able to integrate fabrics created to protect the body from extreme temperatures into everyday wearable outfits, made perhaps even more versatile thanks to a trend that we should call  the “art of layering.” In this new layering of garments we observe style games and individual virtuosities when old style fabrics are matched with denim or with rubberised or waxed finishes. The must-have item nowadays is the multi-pocket utility jacket inspired by mountaineering as highlighted in our Buyer’s Guide. The ability to perform multiple functions simultaneously is another essential characteristic for any item of contemporary clothing.
Highlights
Space Cowgirl Style
Berlin, London, Munich, Florence, Copenhagen : best fairs in Europe
Sports is the new chic

Hybridization
Army. Camouflage. Sport.
Feminine urban styles
New ironic T-shirts
Outerwear Magic
News from the world’s best stores

An Italian benchmark for sports. The leading sportswear company 
Erreà Sport. Interview to Roberto Gandolfi , Administration Cousellor.

The beachwear for Spring/Summer 2015 is characterised by pure escapism and divided among the different tasks of seducing, entertaining, making any aquatic undertaking easier through maximum ergonomic comfort. Therefore the paradises of Acapulco, photographed and re-interpreted at the height of its splendour by minute watercolour prints, of the Côte d'Azur in the Sixties or even of Miami in the Eighties gaze from more or less sporty briefs, trunks or shorts for men with an iconography of pool blue and tropical forest green. The patterns with palm trees, flowers, hibiscus, coconuts, and derived from African tradition are, needless to say, focused at facilitating this metaphysical journey. Even in the city, the casual wardrobe prefers the idea of an exploration, tones and natural textures, tropical shirts and shorts or stone washed jeans enriched with pictorial details, for adults. The younger urbanwear  prefers to customize T-shirts, true style manifestos, with digital prints that combine artistic, colourful, animal, rock  themes. Urbanwear is  more and more powerful thanks to  sportswear influences.

The most transversal game of the winter will be “Superheroes”: able to blend streetwear and ready to wear in a phantasmagoria of solutions for banality-banning outfits. Esthetic dissonances will become the norm: Rock and Roll references will meet the universe of B-movies and the dark chromatic palettes of Goth comic books. At the same time, the high sartorial game of extremely structured coats will mix with the committed relax provided by sweatshirts...

Aw 2014-15: knitwear rules! A relaxed man will choose for next Autumn/Winter to transform his well-stocked wardrobe with  knitwear items, with eclecticism as a common denominator, into a veritable chest of wonders suitable for every occasion, from going shopping to having a drink with the mandatory attempts to seduce the opposite sex. The silver screen allure enables him to explore the most disparate techniques for both sweaters as knitted outerwear. From mix&match of different materials and decorative arts elements such as rhinestones, crochet inserts, and Murano glass baguette-cut stones (as seen in the Buyer’s Guide starting on page 110) to the edgiest metropolitan minimalism borrowed from extreme sports outerwear.

Let’s talk about summer, urban “under thirty” or “thirty something” looks for her and for him split into two main currents: the first one could be defined as “retro rock”, covering the miscellaneous range of young musical imagery, a blend of styles going from ‘50s’ rock to ‘90’s’ grunge embracing the extreme fringes of Heavy Metal as well as the sugary style of boy bands like The Wanted and One Direction; the second current flows under the sign of “techno-glam”, inventing new shapes and formulas full of fun and sex appeal for the must-haves of summer.

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The most complete compendium on modern sport and streetwear. Research fashion labels, trend setting brands, the most innovative designers. From street to international catwalks, passing through specialised salons, a three monthly which gathers together and previews all the sector trends. 4 issues per year.

Collezioni Ideas: T-SHIRTS

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SPORT & STREET COLLEZIONI - Collezioni Ideas: T-SHIRTS

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