Scrambling over loose red rock, threading my way between spiny cactus branches, I’ve started to wonder if this hike up the arroyo is really worth it. There’s no trail up the dry river bed, which only flows – in torrential surges – during the hurricane season, in occasional floods of sudden rain. In the sailing season, from late fall to spring, the desert surrounding Mexico’s Sea of Cortez is bone dry. At the end of the season, in the first weeks of May, the land is also very hot, an omen of the summer hurricanes to come. Between the steep walls of this arroyo, the air is baking and windless. Hiking uphill in the heat among cacti and boulders seems, with each step, like a worse and worse idea. It’s amazing what a classic boat owner will do for yet another scenic view of her wooden treasure.
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