Two Big Onions!

This month Harty sings the praises of Tobago, a very special island.

- Peter Hart

The daily minibus ride from our hotel in Crown Point to the windsurfing centre at Pigeon Point only takes 10 minutes, but it’s one of the most enjoyable parts of the day thanks to the charm and hilarity of our driver Geewan, who was obviously separated at birth from his slightly less funny twin, Eddie Murphy.

“Air hair layer” (oh hello!’) he says as he rolls up.

It’s how he greets us after we’d swapped colloquialisms following an etymological discussion about the differences in pronunciation between the local tongue and the affected English of London society.

In return he gave us, “Two Big Onions.” That, he said, is what you call the people from Tobago.

We cruise ever so gently though the tropical gardens and up to the beach.

“Toodle pip”, says Geewan. And with that another glorious windsurfing day on Tobago begins.

My first trip to Tobago was in the late 90s just as it was emerging onto the windy scene. As I emerged from the tiny airport on my way to the car hire hut, I was hailed by a local guy, and did that terrible thing that tourists do, which was to raise a hand, avoid eye contact and basically ignore him on the assumption that his friendly hello was a just prelude to trying to sell some weed. Because … well that is what I’d encountered on other Caribbean islands. He was still sitting there when I came out:

“You can talk to me you know!” He said with half a smile. “I was just going to ask if you wanted a taxi – but I can see you’re OK. Where are you staying?”

“Jimmy’s Apartments.” I said apologising for my rudeness, making up some lame excuse about being tired. “I know Jimmy. I’m going that way, you can follow me if you like.” And so I did – no demand for dollars – just pure kindness – and there began my love affair with Tobago.