The first time I went to Ukraine was in 1992. The country had just declared independence from the Soviet Union and flying there from South Africa, I could not help but make comparisons. Whereas Africa was alive with greenery and warmth, the dullness of Europe’s second-largest country after Russia, was suffocating.
The strongest memory I have was the lack of color. It was summertime and people were dressed in lackluster greys and browns. The once-elegant, wide avenues of the capital city, Kyiv, belied a former glory.
Fast track 22 years and the country was unrecognizable. Kyiv had transformed into a modern, vibrant city living up to its reputation as the hidden jewel of Europe.
Cobblestone streets and ancient churches charmed the Old City while elsewhere tourists flocked to museums and state-of-the-art theaters.
But those tourists soon disappeared as simmering political tensions erupted into violent anti-government protests that toppled the president in February 2014.
War correspondents like myself poured into the country as pro-Russia separatist fighters began seizing territory in eastern Ukraine. Over the next eight years, more than 14,000 people lost their lives.
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