Samantha Teague flew to Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula to eat at Noma’s latest international pop-up, which opened for seven weeks at Tulum. There were ferns, grasshoppers and lots of Birkenstocks. This is what ran through her head while she was there.
1. To get to Noma Mexico’s front gate (and by gate I mean “rope between two trees”) I bought flights from Sydney, paid for overpriced accommodation at the only yoga retreat not already booked out (it being the Easter long weekend) and paid about $US600 for dinner.
2. Gosh, what a lot of money. I hope it’s good.
3. Wandering along Tulum’s main coastal drag towards said front gate, my dining companions and I stumble across a group of smiling people all wearing white T-shirts, grey aprons and Birkenstocks.
4. Turns out these are the Noma people. A handful of the 145 employees and family members who were flown over from Copenhagen for the pop-up. Lucky bastards.
5. And they’re standing in front of a Mexican jungle.
6. Someone breaks off from the group and leads us around trees, ferns and bushes to our table.
7. Whoa! This floor is made of sand!
8. Don’t staff get sand in their German sandals?
9. I ask and am told yes, they do, and the Scandinavian team members wear socks under them to counter this.
10. A guest at our table asks if they may remove their sand-filled shoes.
11. “Of course!”
12. I’m now sitting at Noma with no shoes on. I feel like a toddler in a sandpit.
13. To help us forget our lack of sophistication we’re handed flutes of 2009 Roederer. Much better.
14. The first dish arrives at the table – it’s a woven basket filled with ice and topped with four plants I couldn’t name if you paid me.
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
From personal experience
Former Hope St Radio chef ELLIE BOUHADANA invites you to gather your loved ones and enjoy an evening of good food and laughter with recipes from her new cookbook, Ellie's Table.
Kimberley Moulton
Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger community. This month, we applaud the international curator and Yorta Yorta woman who is shining a light on First Peoples.
Tom Wallace
We share a drop with the head winemaker for Devil's Corner, Tamar Ridge and Pirie Sparkling, a master of cool-climate grapes.
Best in class
The top drops to keep an eye out for on wine lists (and why they're worth the splurge)
A taste of refuge
Fleeing war and persecution, Australia's new arrivals push our food culture forward. DANI VALENT explores the contributions of the country's refugee communities.
BE OUR GUEST
Inspired by the sense of place conjured by Europe's Michelin-star restaurants, local restaurateurs are expanding their hospitality remit to include accommodation
Barcelona BUZZ
A popular drawcard for digital nomads and expats alike, the Catalonian capital offers equal parts sophistication and fun. Here, DANI VALENT discovers the latest dining hotspots.
HEATHCOTE BOUND
MICHAEL HARDEN hits the road to explore regional Victoria's Heathcote, home to this year's Best Destination Dining and a host of other delights.
The art of...relishing restaurants
Does working in hospitality make someone a better or worse diner
HEART AND SOUL
Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.