From dining 3,500 metres above sea level in the Andes to being immersed in an art installation pre-entrée, MICHAEL HARDEN counts down the 10 most exciting new restaurants in the world.
Balagan, Paris
Near the top of the discerning Parisian’s wish list right now is Balagan, a beautifully designed restaurant and bar on the ground floor of The Renaissance Paris-Vendôme Hotel. Assaf Granit and Uri Navon, two Israeli chefs formerly of Jerusalem’s Machne- Yehuda and London’s Palomar and The Barbary dish up a fusion of Israeli, Moroccan and French cuisine. It’s a great perch to observe yet another example of the city of light’s newfound love of cuisines other than French. It’s also a whole lot of fun. Moroccan oysters are served with chermoula and radish, beef tartare is spiked with tahini and peppers, the veal sweetbreads are grilled and cocktails from the pretty bar might mix beet syrup, mezcal, coriander and sherry vinegar. They sync perfectly with Balagan’s loud, energetic, crazy Israeli-party vibe. 9 Rue d’Alger, Paris, balagan-paris.com
Bar Crenn, San Francisco
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From personal experience
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HEATHCOTE BOUND
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HEART AND SOUL
Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
